Received: from ibm (1Cust244.tnt6.sea1.da.uu.net [208.253.73.244])
by smtp2.mailsrvcs.net with SMTP id CAA23377
for <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>; Sat, 11 Jul 1998 02:52:53 -0500 (CDT)
Message-ID: <001901bdaca0$b13187c0$f449fdd0@ibm>
From: "Charles Skorupa" <
chucks@gte.net>
To: "Murphy Rebel" <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Subject: Re: paint
Date: Sat, 11 Jul 1998 00:51:18 -0700
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Priority: 3
X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.5
X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3
Hi Bob,
Your cited experiences with System 3 sure don't match mine. I have primed
all interior surfaces after etch and alodine and that stuff is really
tenacious after it thoroughly dries. The primer is an ugly green and I put
it on very lightly except at mating surfaces, so the finish is a little
course. I will be priming my exterior surfaces with a primer that is
compatible with the topcoat and like your suggestions there. FYI, Chuck
Bailey ran some tests with a System 3 primed 6061 coupon nailed to a pier
where I have my boat moored. The coupon cycled in and out of the salt water
twice daily with the changing of the tide. In between it was exposed to
direct sunlight and whatever weather the Seattle area could throw at it.
After about a month or two of this, the System 3 area showed little effect.
Chuck should do a write up and maybe show some pictures. We should be
getting some useful feed back from him soon since he used this primer and
paint throughout his airplane. I can't understand the adherence problem you
describe, at least with the primer. That stuff is nearly impossible to
remove from my spray gun and a metal stirring rod I use after it thoroughly
sets up. It has to be forcibly chipped off, since chemicals don't phase it
much. I have had some luck with MEK or acetone and a lot of scrubbing. It
also seems to be very fuel resistant as well. It also weighs less than other
primers. Setting up thoroughly takes a long time though (sometimes weeks
in the Seattle climate!!)even though it is dry to the touch within a few
hours. Water is the carrier solvent, as opposed to a hyrocarbon based
carrier, and it takes much longer for it to evaporate off as the paint
dries. It also evaporates off as water vapor, instead of an airborn toxic
vapor. Also, I am very particular about how I mix the accelerator.
Sometime that is an advantage because if you screw up, you can turn the hose
on it and wash it off and start over, if you catch it within a few hours.
(I had to do that once when an evil gnome snuck in and spilled paint on a
panel, and then spirited off into the night. The devious devil even made it
look like I accidentally bumped the container and caused the spill. I'd be
on the lookout for him around your shop since he has been the cause of many
incidents and he gets around a lot!!) Once it dries, however, no amount of
water will remove it. They use it for painting boats out here. I haven't
used the paint, but like the primer, especially the easy water thinning,
water cleanup, no fire hazard, and especially the environmentally friendly,
lack of carcinogenic vapors and chemicals. I have already done battle with
Mr. Cancer once and don't care to deal with anything more that invites him
back than I have to. On the negative side, I don't think it will readily
produce a top quality, high gloss surface, at least not by spraying it on.
That's one reason I haven't sprayed it on the external surfaces, though I
have dipped all rivets. I have experimented with an application method
called "stippling" that the marine folks use to apply polyurethane paint and
it seems to do a pretty good job. You can actually apply the paint with a
roller and then lightly brush the painted surface using just the tips of a
regular paint brush and get a surface you would swear has been sprayed on.
I find that if I rub the surface with a nylon stocking after it has dried
for about 4-6 hours, it shines up great and looks pretty nice as well. (I
thought of including of lots of good puns here about removing the stockings
before using or the hazards of getting distracted during the stocking
retrieval process, but thought better of it). I think the key is to aid the
self-leveling and flowout process. I believe there was a Kitplane article a
year or so ago about a guy who painted his plane using Red Devil
polyurethane paint he got from Wal Mart and a similar roller process to that
described above with excellent results. It sure would solve any problems
with a paint booth or overspray, etc. I am still experimenting and learning
and will keep the group appraised.
- Chuck Skorupa -
Rebel Elite Taildragger S/N 500
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Patterson <
bob.patterson@canrem.com>
To: Murphy Rebel <
murphy-rebel@dcsol.com>
Date: Friday, July 10, 1998 8:00 PM
Subject: Re: paint
Sorry - a little behind in my email !!
I would think that about 3 or 4 gallons would do it. Just a thought -
Polyfiber makes the epoxy zinc chromate primer in WHITE (or did for a
while).
This would be ideal to prime the outside before painting - being white
already, you will likely need less final paint. You should etch
(and Alodine) before priming. Jim Albright in Orangeville has already
done his Rebel with the Polyfiber white primer, and says it's almost
good enough to just add his final trim colour & go !!!
Most automotive paint these days is good.
One paint to AVOID ABSOLUTELY is an aircraft paint - a
water-based epoxy called "System 3" !! I know of several
VERY unhappy Rebel builders who have used this stuff, only to have it
FALL off - often before flying, even !! The primer seems to be VERY
inconsistent...
Rebel No. 1 was painted with Alumigrip aircraft polyeurethane,
and still looks shiny after 8 years outside !! It's expensive,($275 gal.!)
and toxic, but it sure looks & wears !!
Rebel no. 68 was painted with R-M Limco 1-2 Acrylic Enamel, and
looks good so far. This is about the middle of R-M's line for
quality/price.
R-M is a well-known automotive paint, of good reputation. I think the
next one up is Eurethane Enamel, and the top is called Base Clear (I
think).
The Base Clear has a protective clear coat on top - great for metallics !!
PPG Durethane is another popular automotive paint that works well.
I met a lady in Florida who said she could paint a Cessna 150 with 2
colours
of PPG, and it would only gain 35 lb. !! Presumably she used a HVLP paint
spray rig. You can get these with a fresh air hood for the spray operator,
as well. An EXCELLENT idea, as inhaling this paint is definitely BAD !!
Hope this helps !
Good luck !! .....bobp
--------------------orig.---------------------------------------------
At 11:03 PM 7/7/98 -0400, you wrote:
Hello there,
Can anyone tell us how much paint (gallons) would be needed to paint the
SR2500? We plan on using white paint. How many coats would be required?
We have asked before, but again regarding the fuel probes - where would
you
install the capacitance probes (root rib or main rib)? Why? Where do you
run the wiring if installing in the main rib?
Peter Kopasovic & Monica Piquette
SR0003
