[rebel-builders] Soundproofing

[Richard Wampach]

David:
As you say you want it corrosion resistant. Does it hold water (like a
sponge), I hope not. If it does don't use it. Moisture from hi
humidity, rain etc would not be a good combination, especially if you
are in the far north where it freezes. I would lean towards no cement,
it can then be removed for inspection, maintenance etc.

Dick Wampach SR-108

From[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf of David L. Tuck

I'm about to close the inside floor area under the seat rails and I have
placed some 1/4" soundproofing purchased at Wicks, It is smooth on one
side and fire retardant, Should help with noise and some insulation too.
The manufacture says to glue with waterproof cement? I have just placed
it in between the ribs without glue, I don't want to promote corrosion?
Should I glue or leave it friction fit?
Any comments?
Thanks
Dave T
Rebel 009




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[Ken]

I also elected not to add insulation inside closed panels. However if
you do I'd recommend gluing it to the top surface (bottom of inside
floor) so it tends to stay drier and where any corrosion is less
dangerous. Water will get inside the enclosed floor.
Ken

Richard Wampach wrote:

David:
As you say you want it corrosion resistant. Does it hold water (like a
sponge), I hope not. If it does don't use it. Moisture from hi
humidity, rain etc would not be a good combination, especially if you
are in the far north where it freezes. I would lean towards no cement,
it can then be removed for inspection, maintenance etc.

Dick Wampach SR-108

From[mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf of David L. Tuck

I'm about to close the inside floor area under the seat rails and I have
placed some 1/4" soundproofing purchased at Wicks, It is smooth on one
side and fire retardant, Should help with noise and some insulation too.
The manufacture says to glue with waterproof cement? I have just placed
it in between the ribs without glue, I don't want to promote corrosion?
Should I glue or leave it friction fit?
Any comments?
Thanks
Dave T
Rebel 009

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[Dave Ricker]

Dave

Just a thought, the sound insulation will probably perform better if it is attached to the panel. If it is a material that depends on its mass to damp the sound transmission of a panel (changing the sound transmission
impedance) it needs to "modify" the movement of the panel as the sound travels through it. I'd look at something like the 3M upholstry spray adhesives as an option. They can be had through automotive body supply
jobbers.

Another source of materials is Dynamat. http://www.dynamat.com/technical_technical.html They claim their Tacmat is used in aircraft.

Cheers,

Dave

"David L. Tuck" wrote:

I'm about to close the inside floor area under the seat rails and I have placed some 1/4" soundproofing purchased at Wicks, It is smooth on one side and fire retardant, Should help with noise and some insulation too.
The manufacture says to glue with waterproof cement? I have just placed it in between the ribs without glue, I don't want to promote corrosion? Should I glue or leave it friction fit?
Any comments?
Thanks
Dave T
Rebel 009
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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[John W]

I recieved a box of airtex insulating material from a friend and did my Elite. It is fireproof aviation approved and works extremely well, its thin and preglued.

Unfortunately, I ran out and had to buy one 24 x 24 sheet Ouch its expensive (38 a piece) but you can talk in my Elite at idle no headsets no more oil can rattly noises got to easier on the riveting too.

John W 752E


--- On Sat, 8/9/08, Dave Ricker <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:

From: Dave Ricker <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Soundproofing
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 8:32 PM
Dave

Just a thought, the sound insulation will probably perform
better if it is attached to the panel. If it is a material
that depends on its mass to damp the sound transmission of a
panel (changing the sound transmission
impedance) it needs to "modify" the movement of
the panel as the sound travels through it. I'd look at
something like the 3M upholstry spray adhesives as an
option. They can be had through automotive body supply
jobbers.

Another source of materials is Dynamat.
http://www.dynamat.com/technical_technical.html They claim
their Tacmat is used in aircraft.

Cheers,

Dave

"David L. Tuck" wrote:

I'm about to close the inside floor area under the

seat rails and I have placed some 1/4" soundproofing
purchased at Wicks, It is smooth on one side and fire
retardant, Should help with noise and some insulation too.

The manufacture says to glue with waterproof cement? I

have just placed it in between the ribs without glue, I
don't want to promote corrosion? Should I glue or leave
it friction fit?

Any comments?
Thanks
Dave T
Rebel 009

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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Gary Gustafson]

Several questions
1) How much of your plane did you insulate? Firewall? Area forward of
the doors? Or more. From what I read most of the noise comes from the
area forward of the doors.
2) I can not find the particular insulation in 24 x 24 sheets on the
Airtex website at: http://www.airtexinteriors.com/catalogue/misc.htm
3) What was the weight of the material you used or do you have more
information on the particular product?
4) Has anyone tried the SoundEx Products (www.soundedproducts.com)?
I have been impressed with their products as displayed at Sun n'Fun
and they appear to be light in weight and provide good soundproofing

Gary 242R

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of John W
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:01 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Soundproofing

I recieved a box of airtex insulating material from a friend and did my
Elite. It is fireproof aviation approved and works extremely well, its thin
and preglued.

Unfortunately, I ran out and had to buy one 24 x 24 sheet Ouch its expensive
(38 a piece) but you can talk in my Elite at idle no headsets no more oil
can rattly noises got to easier on the riveting too.

John W 752E


--- On Sat, 8/9/08, Dave Ricker <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:

From: Dave Ricker <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Soundproofing
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 8:32 PM
Dave

Just a thought, the sound insulation will probably perform
better if it is attached to the panel. If it is a material
that depends on its mass to damp the sound transmission of a
panel (changing the sound transmission
impedance) it needs to "modify" the movement of
the panel as the sound travels through it. I'd look at
something like the 3M upholstry spray adhesives as an
option. They can be had through automotive body supply
jobbers.

Another source of materials is Dynamat.
http://www.dynamat.com/technical_technical.html They claim
their Tacmat is used in aircraft.

Cheers,

Dave

"David L. Tuck" wrote:

I'm about to close the inside floor area under the

seat rails and I have placed some 1/4" soundproofing
purchased at Wicks, It is smooth on one side and fire
retardant, Should help with noise and some insulation too.

The manufacture says to glue with waterproof cement? I

have just placed it in between the ribs without glue, I
don't want to promote corrosion? Should I glue or leave
it friction fit?

Any comments?
Thanks
Dave T
Rebel 009

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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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[Mike Kimball]

That website should be http://www.soundexproducts.com.

Mike
044SR

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Gustafson
Sent: Friday, August 15, 2008 4:36 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [rebel-builders] Soundproofing

Several questions
1) How much of your plane did you insulate? Firewall? Area forward of
the doors? Or more. From what I read most of the noise comes from the
area forward of the doors.
2) I can not find the particular insulation in 24 x 24 sheets on the
Airtex website at: http://www.airtexinteriors.com/catalogue/misc.htm
3) What was the weight of the material you used or do you have more
information on the particular product?
4) Has anyone tried the SoundEx Products (www.soundedproducts.com)?
I have been impressed with their products as displayed at Sun n'Fun
and they appear to be light in weight and provide good soundproofing

Gary 242R

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of John W
Sent: Wednesday, August 13, 2008 8:01 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Soundproofing

I recieved a box of airtex insulating material from a friend and did my
Elite. It is fireproof aviation approved and works extremely well, its thin
and preglued.

Unfortunately, I ran out and had to buy one 24 x 24 sheet Ouch its expensive
(38 a piece) but you can talk in my Elite at idle no headsets no more oil
can rattly noises got to easier on the riveting too.

John W 752E


--- On Sat, 8/9/08, Dave Ricker <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:

From: Dave Ricker <daricker@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] Soundproofing
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Date: Saturday, August 9, 2008, 8:32 PM
Dave

Just a thought, the sound insulation will probably perform
better if it is attached to the panel. If it is a material
that depends on its mass to damp the sound transmission of a
panel (changing the sound transmission
impedance) it needs to "modify" the movement of
the panel as the sound travels through it. I'd look at
something like the 3M upholstry spray adhesives as an
option. They can be had through automotive body supply
jobbers.

Another source of materials is Dynamat.
http://www.dynamat.com/technical_technical.html They claim
their Tacmat is used in aircraft.

Cheers,

Dave

"David L. Tuck" wrote:

I'm about to close the inside floor area under the

seat rails and I have placed some 1/4" soundproofing
purchased at Wicks, It is smooth on one side and fire
retardant, Should help with noise and some insulation too.

The manufacture says to glue with waterproof cement? I

have just placed it in between the ribs without glue, I
don't want to promote corrosion? Should I glue or leave
it friction fit?

Any comments?
Thanks
Dave T
Rebel 009

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together like never before.

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David A. Ricker
Fall River, Nova Scotia
Canada






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