around 215F to boil the water out of the oil. On the nose bowl.. I just take
duct tape and put two overlapping strips across the inlets. First one
strip.. then another overlapping about 1/3rd onto the first. Tape goes from
the prop flange hole to just wrapping around the corner of the bowl. I then
fold the tape over onto itself by about 1/2" top and bottom to tighten up
the tape. Works good keeping the cylinders about 325/350 and the oil
toasty.... and reducer in the spring removes the tape goo without touching
the pain. Nothing worse for the motor, in winter (or anytime actually), than
running cold 150/160 oil temps...
.. and I just pulled up pics of your airplane to remind me that you have the
speed cowling. Oil cooler tape still applies and all you can do is play
'till you find the right amount, short of making a cooler inlet control. For
the nose inlets... I'm looking at that one top cowl to bottom cowl joiner
screw as a place to mount a plate across over to the hinge pin side. You
have to play a bit and see how it effects your CHT's due to the disrupted
airflow. If you are seeing good CHT's as is.. then don't worry about it and
just make sure your oil temps are getting high enough to boil the water out.
----- Original Message -----
From: "John R. Davidson" <skidaddy20000@hotmail.com>
To: "Rebel List" <rebel-builders@dcsol.com>
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2012 9:35 PM
Subject: [rebel-builders] Winter cowl intake blocks
Hello again, Another project I was working on this weekend was making cowl
intake blockers to restrict the intake of air during the winter. It
occurred to me that some of you may have experience with these. My main
questions are: What proportion of the inlet do you want to block for
flying in 0 to -10 *C weather, and, How have you attached such blockers?
Any other insights, comments, experiences welcome. Thanks in advance.
John
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