[Bulk] Re: [rebel-builders] Fife elevator tip install

Roland Kriening · Post by **Roland Kriening** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:36 pm

Thanks Ron, great response and help as always.

The plans call for an L bracket to attach the channel running across the tip
(first photo you sent) to the elevator itself. Basically it joins metal to
metal. Without it the tip is held on only by the rivets along the edge of
the tip where it joins the elevator. It would be the fourth piece of metal
in the tip. Of course it would be easier to just leave it out. Once the tip
is on, it's on... so wanted to make sure I can do without that mechanical
(metal) connection
before final riveting.

Roland

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Shannon
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 9:36 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [rebel-builders] Fife elevator tip install

Not sure I understand, Roland. You shouldn't have trouble getting rivets
in. Try looking at my photos http://n254mr.com/node/1319 and
http://n254mr.com/node/1177 and http://n254mr.com/node/1180 . . Also a
photo of the rudder tip -- which is built the same way -- is at
http://n254mr.com/node/1457 -- which gives a slightly different angle on
the whole thing. Hopefully, these photos will help.

Note that there are just three pieces of metal in the tip, plus
counterweight, of course. First, a short channel running across the tip
inside, then the rib for the forward section, and the MAM "nose rib" that
holds the counterweight.

As I recall, there is some other piece called out in the manual for the
Murphy tips, but if memory serves, it's not needed with the Fife tips
because they're stronger. Perhaps that's what you're referring to.

Ron

On Sun, Jan 8, 2012 at 3:54 PM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com> wrote:

For those who have installed the Fife elevator tips.

I am following the instructions for tip install found in the manual, but
due
to the fact that the Fife tips are one piece I am struggling a bit with

one

section. The plans call for a L shaped bracket to tie the tip ST31
structure
to the elevator end rib. This is a lot easier with the factory tips as you
can work with the top half off. I am finding it difficult to get rivets
into
the L bracket as it is impossible to get a rivet gun into the space.
Hopefully those that have gone before know what I am talking about.

Also, I started to get duplicate copies of all the messages again...

anyone

know a quick fix.

Roland
R56

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Ron Shannon · Post by **Ron Shannon** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:36 pm

There might be some value in adding a small angle connecting the
cross-channel and the rib (there must have been some reason I didn't) but
personally, I wouldn't want to rivet a bracket from the tip to the
elevator..

I know some people prefer to just rivet their tips -- it's light -- but I
wanted to be able to take mine on and off easily -- particularly to check
the hinge bolt. I'm glad I used screws, because the tips have been on and
off several times already -- for annual inspection, to fix some hangar
rash, etc. [Dept. of Broken (Vinyl) Record Alert:] Of course, using ye olde
single-hole Click-Bond nutplates makes it easy to install screws.

I'm glad you found the photos on my web site to be useful. That's what the
site is for. There are over 700 photos, most of them annotated, and 500 or
so text entries with further explanations. The SEARCH function is the best
part. To find the links I sent in response to your question, I just
searched for "elevator tips" and got a dozen or so relevant items in
seconds. Of course, the site's greatest value is to find out how _not_ to
do something. ;-)

Ron
http://n254mr.com

On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 5:36 AM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com> wrote:

Thanks Ron, great response and help as always.

The plans call for an L bracket to attach the channel running across the
tip
(first photo you sent) to the elevator itself. Basically it joins metal to
metal. Without it the tip is held on only by the rivets along the edge of
the tip where it joins the elevator. It would be the fourth piece of metal
in the tip. Of course it would be easier to just leave it out. Once the tip
is on, it's on... so wanted to make sure I can do without that mechanical
(metal) connection
before final riveting.

Roland

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Shannon
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 9:36 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [rebel-builders] Fife elevator tip install

Not sure I understand, Roland. You shouldn't have trouble getting rivets
in. Try looking at my photos http://n254mr.com/node/1319 and
http://n254mr.com/node/1177 and http://n254mr.com/node/1180 . . Also a
photo of the rudder tip -- which is built the same way -- is at
http://n254mr.com/node/1457 -- which gives a slightly different angle on
the whole thing. Hopefully, these photos will help.

Note that there are just three pieces of metal in the tip, plus
counterweight, of course. First, a short channel running across the tip
inside, then the rib for the forward section, and the MAM "nose rib" that
holds the counterweight.

As I recall, there is some other piece called out in the manual for the
Murphy tips, but if memory serves, it's not needed with the Fife tips
because they're stronger. Perhaps that's what you're referring to.

Ron

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Dale Kilbey · Post by **Dale Kilbey** » Sun Feb 19, 2012 11:36 pm

I installed rivnuts in the elevator and then drilled a small hole in the
outer end of the tip just big enough for a Phillips screwdriver and
installed 2 pan head screws and installed the tips with ss screws. They are
easily removed.
Dale

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Roland
Kriening
Sent: January-09-12 8:36 AM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: RE: [Bulk] Re: [rebel-builders] Fife elevator tip install

Thanks Ron, great response and help as always.

The plans call for an L bracket to attach the channel running across the tip
(first photo you sent) to the elevator itself. Basically it joins metal to
metal. Without it the tip is held on only by the rivets along the edge of
the tip where it joins the elevator. It would be the fourth piece of metal
in the tip. Of course it would be easier to just leave it out. Once the tip
is on, it's on... so wanted to make sure I can do without that mechanical
(metal) connection
before final riveting.

Roland

-----Original Message-----
From: mike.davis@dcsol.com [mailto:mike.davis@dcsol.com] On Behalf Of Ron
Shannon
Sent: Sunday, January 08, 2012 9:36 PM
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: [Bulk] Re: [rebel-builders] Fife elevator tip install

Not sure I understand, Roland. You shouldn't have trouble getting rivets
in. Try looking at my photos http://n254mr.com/node/1319 and
http://n254mr.com/node/1177 and http://n254mr.com/node/1180 . . Also a
photo of the rudder tip -- which is built the same way -- is at
http://n254mr.com/node/1457 -- which gives a slightly different angle on
the whole thing. Hopefully, these photos will help.

Note that there are just three pieces of metal in the tip, plus
counterweight, of course. First, a short channel running across the tip
inside, then the rib for the forward section, and the MAM "nose rib" that
holds the counterweight.

As I recall, there is some other piece called out in the manual for the
Murphy tips, but if memory serves, it's not needed with the Fife tips
because they're stronger. Perhaps that's what you're referring to.

Ron

On Sun, Jan 8, 2012 at 3:54 PM, Roland Kriening <kriening@rogers.com> wrote:

For those who have installed the Fife elevator tips.

I am following the instructions for tip install found in the manual, but
due
to the fact that the Fife tips are one piece I am struggling a bit with

one

section. The plans call for a L shaped bracket to tie the tip ST31
structure
to the elevator end rib. This is a lot easier with the factory tips as you
can work with the top half off. I am finding it difficult to get rivets
into
the L bracket as it is impossible to get a rivet gun into the space.
Hopefully those that have gone before know what I am talking about.

Also, I started to get duplicate copies of all the messages again...

anyone

know a quick fix.

Roland
R56

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