That's odd - if it is a clone of the Scott, they definitely use
tension springs, snug, or they won't steer right & will shimmy ...
I have had to cut an inch or more off the back end of later
fiberglass springs to bring the tailwheel shaft to vertical - they
were supplied longer... Might be too long & wiggly, leaving
the shaft sloping back too far ... Shimmy is serious stuff -
can cause a lot of damage in the tail section.
If it is a clone of the Scott, there should be a large nut on
the bottom, secured with a cotter pin. If you remove the pin &
tighten it, it increases friction, and should prevent shimmy ...
try it snug, & replace the pin... Should feel stiff to move by
hand... then give it a shot of grease... Hope that works !
--
......bobp
bobp@prosumers.ca
bobp@pattersys.com
http://www.Pattersys.com
http://www.amway.ca/BobPatterson
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On February 16, 2011 01:30:37 am Jesse Jenks wrote:
Thanks Bob,
Tailwheel is the baby bushwheel. It is a scott 3200 body with a larger fork
and fat tire. I have the fiberglass tailspring. The steering springs are
from Murphy and the chains are a bit slack. I rigged them that way at the
direction of a guy at Alaskan Bushwheels. He said to make sure the chains
are not so tight that when the thing is hard over the outside chain gets
real tight and prevents it from breaking loose without a bunch of force. I
think you're right though, they probably need to be tighter. I'll try
unplugging my static lines and see what that does. It seems like you
wouldn't get a reliable pressure that way either, but I know I have heard
you and others say that before. A static mast would be easy to do at this
point too. Hopefully will have a youtube link before too long
From: bobp@prosumers.ca
To: rebel-builders@dcsol.com
Subject: Re: [rebel-builders] RE: [rebel-builders First Flight...has
happened! Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2011 00:32:06 -0500
Congrats Jesse !
More fun to come !!
You can safely use 2 notches of flap for both - as Ken says,
I always use full flapperon for takeoff & landing -- but I bleed off
to 2 notches for climb.
Tailwheel shimmy - hmmmm - got a steel leaf spring ?? ;-)
Or a Maule tailwheel ?? ;-)
If it really is a Scott 3200, be sure you have the proper
Scott springs, and tight.... no slack in chains. All others should
have about 1/4"+ slack ...
Easy fix for static - snip the hoses & use cabin air - MANY
builders end up that way -- works fine, other than a little needle
flutter when you open or close a window ... :-)
How about some pics ??? :-)It flies really nice, just like everyone says. I did a nice wheel
landing with a light crosswind, one wheel at a time. Had a wicked
tailwheel shimmey when it touched down and it wouldn't stop until I
was at taxi speed, so that was a bummer. Makes me glad I didn't 3
point it though. I also have a nasty oil leak to track down and my
airspeed is sluggish, probably like everyone else who put static ports
on the forward fuselage. I guess I will try a static mast under the
wing. Does that seem to work well? Looks like I have a few days work
before I can fly again. I also have to finish the wing/fuselage
fairings as I just had them duck taped on for today's flight, complete
with a cardboard section around the LE/windshield. That's OK because
it is supposed to rain for a few days, and I new this afternoon would
be my window of opportunity, thus the duck tape and cardboard to get
me airborne. I loaded 80 pounds of wood stove pellets and had 20 gal
fuel for a CG of 14.5. The handling was just great. Ken I took your
advice and just used one notch for takeoff and landing. That seems
very adequate for a first time in the airplane, although I think I may
have actually taken off with one notch negative by mistake. My flap
handle is not labeled yet and when I went to retract the flaps at
about 1,000' I seem to remember pulling it back one notch to neutral.
Who knows now, and it took off and climbed great either way. Thanks.
Jesse
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